A Gaucho Festival

We had so much fun today at the Gaucho Festival. A gaucho is basically an Argentinean cowboy. We really didn’t know what to expect (we thought it might be something like a rodeo). We along with many others from Insignia (and several other cruise lines – 9 bus loads in all!) were driven out to Santa Susana, a traditional ranch in the Argentina countryside.

We all piled off the buses and were greeted by women in traditional dress carrying huge baskets of empanadas while drinks of choice were being served by the men. Afterwards we were given time just to explore a little around the ranch. In addition to the large event room where we ate lunch, there was a small chapel and also the original house which has been turned into somewhat of a museum. Guests could wander through the grounds, ride a horse or take a carriage ride around the ranch.

At lunch, we were served several courses by the gauchos. There were a couple of different kinds of salads served family style, next chorizo, then something akin to black sausage (think black pudding, definitely do NOT recommend!) then steak and seriously the best chicken we’ve ever eaten. It almost melted in our mouths, and finally steak. For dessert there was an ice cream dish that was really yummy serve with really strong, really sweet coffee (just like we had last night). I'm not sure a true coffee drinker could drink it.

Next was entertainment which was similar to last night with several kinds of traditional dance including the tango, bola dancing and singing. A bola is a rope-like device crafted of rawhide cow leather with balls on the ends that are filled with rocks. They are used by gauchos to entangle the legs of an animal and bring it down, similar to how an American cowboy would rope a steer. There is also a dance where the gaucho swings the bolas really, really fast, letting them strike the floor to create a rhythmic sound along with his dance steps.

After the meal was finally finished, we all went back outside and the gauchos entertained us. They put on a show herding the horses followed by a ring race (known as la sortija) where the gaucho had to race under a bar from which a ring is hanging and remove it by sticking a pin through the middle and yanking it down. Traditionally, the gaucho then gives the ring to a girl. If she is receptive to him, she gives him a kiss. If not, she kisses his horse! We didn’t have to do that but it was fun to watch.  

After the gauchos and horses finished, more pastries were passed out along with the national drink - mate. I gave it a sip so I could say that I tried it and I can now confirm that what I’ve heard is true – it's nasty. Even loaded up with sugar, it tastes really awful. I honestly can’t imagine anyone outside of Argentina or Uruguay liking it.

As you might imagine, I took a TON of photos and I will post a little of everything, along with some of my favorites. You will notice that the gauchos clothing bears no resemblance to the American cowboys clothing. Besides wearing no boots or (what we consider to be) cowboy hats, their belts are very different. We were told that the belt the gaucho wears has or may not have coins in it. The coins are an indicator of how much wealth he has. They also carry large knives in the back of the belt.

 

welcome to Santa Susana

 

 

 

open air dining/entertainment area

 

wood burning fire

some serious grilling

bolas

chairs made entirely from cow bones

leather place mats from cowhide

many different kinds of trees on the ranch (date palm?)

steak anyone?

belt with coins holds knife

yes, please!

chicken, mam?

busy gaucho takes time to pose

The Gaucho

I forgot to mention that our tour guide showed us this picture (actually it was the front book cover that I think she had as a child). She said that this is required reading for every Argentinean as soon as they start school. It is called The Gaucho and was written by Martin Fierro in 1872! She didn't explain what was so important about it but I just googled it and found the following. If you're interested in knowing more, just google the title and author's name.

"This is a poem of protest drawn from the life of the gaucho, who was forced to yield his freedom and individuality to the social and material changes that invaded his beloved pampas--a protest which arose from years of abuse and neglect suffered from landowners, militarists, and the Argentine political establishment." 

 

visitors are offered carriage rides

the Tango

folk dancers

 traditional folk dance

Argentinean bandoneon

 

la sortija (ring game)

got it!

photo credit: Ronnie (he should paint it!)

compare gaucho attire with western cowboy attire

We were late getting back to the ship and barely had enough time to take quick showers and make our 6:30 dinner reservation time in one of the specialty restaurants on board. We were seated in the very back of the ship by the windows with 3 Californians and we had a great view of the tug boat as it helped turn our ship around so that we could head out of the narrow channel and into the open water. As we were backing up, the sun was setting and I snapped this photo out the back window of the ship. It was the perfect ending to a very nice day.

 

                                                  Goodbye, Buenos Aires, Argentina!