Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Need a lift?


the poor kid is asleep, a common sight
Who knew that riding a scooter could be such a family affair?

As I'm sure you've figured out by now, scooters are an extremely popular form of transportation here, as they are relatively cheap to operate and they rarely stop moving, even when cars are at a standstill. In the States, we typically see one person riding at a time, or perhaps two if it’s a Harley or something large. But here, they are scooters and the name of the game is “how many can you pack on?”

As many as 4 persons per scooter is very common. Five persons are not as common, although you can see that on occasion as well. Of course to fit that many, at least 2 need to be little people. 
who's driving?

some women ride side saddle
comforting a child makes a backward ride

Since motorcycles are always on the move (as am I), it’s not that easy to get good shots of this. And also I try to be discreet and not point my camera right at them so these are as good as I've gotten so far…but you get the idea….

side saddle with sleeping baby

sometimes the rides are multi-generational 

pineapple leaves for making woven rice baskets

mother and daddy sandwich

typical street scene

and baby makes three



Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Volcanoes and Stuff

Mt. Tangkuban Perahu
This morning, Ronnie’s associate Pak Dwi picked us up and drove us about an hour north of Bandung to Mt. Tangkuban Perahu, Bandung's most famous tourist volcano. As such, it is a tourist trap as well. I had barely gotten out of the car before I learned not to make eye contact with the vendors who were hawking their wares. They push them in front of you and if you look at them say “you buy?” or if you don’t look “maybe later?” I got the feeling these are the only words they know in English. Which is fine, because I certainly don't know their language either!

Pak Dwi and Ronnie
We walked along the rim area which was also outlined with vendors and artisans selling everything from powdered sulfur in reused water bottles to handmade instruments. The volcano itself was an awesome sight. After that, we drove a short distance to Kowah Domas Crater where we descended a well-worn trail that I can only describe as equatorial; however it was never so dense that we could not see the sky. We navigated over roots and rocks for 1.7 miles until we reached the crater’s hot springs. Parts of the springs are so hot that people were actually boiling eggs in them. Sulfur and boiled eggs - what a combo! Other parts were just perfect for a good hot foot soak, which we all did.

Kowah Domas Crater
From there he took us to Sari Ater Hot Springs Resort  – not exactly our cup of tea but I guess it was interesting to see the Indonesian version of a water park. After walking around there for an hour or so, we drove past tea plantations and pineapple stands before heading back to Bandung. We asked Dwi to drop us off at Paris Van Java mall, as we were both so hungry and thirsty. We try to be sensitive to the fact that our host is fasting, but after 6.5 hours with only a few "sneaked" sips of water from my purse, we were both ready for some R&R.

water boiling up from ground
After a late lunch, we went to a pharmacy (apotik) to get Ronnie an antihistamine. There were no products we were familiar with. After trying awhile to read labels, I attempted to communicate with the lady behind the counter who of course spoke no English. I found myself doing “charades” for blowing nose, sore throat, sneezing, etc. That went on for quite a long time while she pulled out various drugs from behind the counter in response to my “symptoms”. 

ahhh...my aching feet!!
While it is nice (in theory) to be able to buy medications without an RX, it is also a little scary to take something that you have NO IDEA what it is except for your own ability to “act out” your symptoms to a person behind the counter! Btw, I have no idea if she had any pharmaceutical training or was just a sales clerk?? After probably 20 minutes or so of Ronnie trying to read ingredient labels and me acting out his symptoms, another customer who could speak a little bit of English kindly came to our rescue. From what I could understand, the clerk was trying to give us what (hopefully) was an antihistamine and an antibiotic. We bought the antihistamine (?) and he seems no worse off after taking one.

view from my foot soak
 
there are lots of pineapple stands like this
Actually, our apartment was reserved for this weekend (and another in September) before we signed our contract. So we are stuck for 2 nights in a small room across the alley that is attached to our landlady's house. Whatever, my feet were killing me by the time we got back! (Ronnie estimated we had walked about 6 miles in all.) Today is Idul Fitri, the biggest holiday of the Muslim year. With no AC, our room was filled with the noise of prayers in Arabic over loud speakers (Allah is great, there is no god but Allah), fireworks and dogs barking. Oh, and did I mention that our landlady’s garage light shone down into our bedroom windows too?  We went to sleep thanking God for a bed, ear plugs and extra pillows to cover our heads.

tea plantation

Another Sunday, Another Church

Bandung International Church
It was great getting to visit another church on Sunday, the Bandung International Church. It and the church we visited last Sunday are the only Christian churches in the city that offer services in English. From the crowd, I would say the majority of members are Indonesian with a mix of Chinese and Caucasians (from various countries). The building itself is on the campus of the International School where I suspect a lot of expat kids attend.

The side of the building where the church meets is completely open but really quite pleasant. The music was more contemporary with praise and worship vs traditional  hymns. I couldn't keep from dabbing my eyes during "Alleluia" (worthy is the Lamb, worthy is the Lamb, you are holy, holy, are you Lord God Almighty!), "We Fall Down" and "Great is Thy Faithfulness."
I'll include a link to one of my favorites.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0IkFSAFyfE

the choir sounded surprisingly good!

I'm guessing it's probably normal when one is as far out of their comfort zone as we are right now to seek out people with whom you feel you have something in common. Come to think of it, that's probably true no matter where we are, but being 12,500 miles from home it seems even more so. We both get excited when we see a Caucasian or even someone who understands "a little bit" of English.


So you can imagine how exciting it was to participate in such a church service, knowing that you share the deepest of bonds - mutual faith in the Lord Jesus Christ - with believers from literally all over the world! I couldn't help but be reminded of Revelation 5 and how awesome it will be when some day people from every nation on the earth who have put their faith in the Lamb - the only one who is worthy to break the seals - will bow down before Him singing these exact words!

International School
altar table with velvet offering bags


Sunday, August 28, 2011

Street People

Admittedly, most of my photos of people on the street have been taken from the back seat of a cab. Though shooting through the window of a moving vehicle is far from ideal, I've still managed to capture some glimpses of street life during this first couple of weeks in Bandung. As time goes along, I hope to be able to do more actual street photography on foot and capture in more detail the people and activities that I've only glimpsed in passing. Although there is much to see and experience here, it's the everyday people carrying out everyday activities that I find most interesting.



This lady was begging for money in stopped traffic. We were told that there are many more beggars in the streets during Ramadan. Muslims are more generous at this time, believing the reward for charity is 70 times greater than during other times of the year.




Since this is their Ramadan period, people are fasting from sun up to sun down. At 6 p.m. Muslims are breaking their fast and the streets remind us of ants on an anthill. Food vendors are set up literally everywhere you look!


street vendor

street musician

Whenever the traffic stops, there are people moving in and out of the cars, either selling something or singing for a bit of change.


motor scooter man
litter everywhere!
It's funny how many people on the street are using cell phones (they call them hand phones). Here a rider sitting next to our cab takes the opportunity to make a call or send a text. People who ride scooters are often seen wearing masks - for very good reason! Apparently emissions laws are non existent and the pollution is hard on lungs and eyes.





Litter is common along streets and sidewalks. Not every street is as bad as the one at the right but this is not the worst we've seen. One has to assume that the residents of Bandung are not that bothered by it.

buy a balloon?

pineapples for sale




Balloons for sale outside Setiabudhi Supermarket. Vendors are always hawking their wares along the sides of the streets, or in this case a supermarket parking lot.


This is the street that Ben and Marlene call "Pineapple Road." We stopped and picked out 2 of (about $2 each) and they were super sweet. I don't know what the maroon colored fruit in clusters is. I've seen these in the grocery store as well. Does anyone know what they are? Maybe we'll try it one of these days.

Street singers are common, the majority of whom play guitars. Some can sing; some can't. As soon as the traffic stops, they quickly move among the cars, coming up to your car window in hopes of scoring a quick tip. Last night, I spotted someone sitting cross legged on a small triangle of concrete playing a wooden flute in the middle of a congested intersection. Sometimes you see mothers with young babies.


angkots - a common sight
Angkots or minibuses are probably the most common form of public transportation. They are often overcrowded (cram packed is more accurate) and have no doors. They are designed for 10 people, but often carry as many as 18. A one-way ride usually costs 2.000 to 5.000. We were charged 5.000 for a short ride because it was obvious that we didn't know what we were doing. Pickpockets are common in angkots.

Saturday, August 27, 2011

A good hair day!

This morning we took a cab to Paris Van Java mall and met the missionary couple and their kids for lunch. They chose an Indonesia restaurant – it was casual but nice. I played it safe and ordered chicken satay and rice with strawberry juice. Because Trevor and Teresa are fluent in Indonesian, they were able to ask for me if the ice was made from bottled water. It wasn’t, so I ordered my juice without it. While drinking my juice, it dawned on me that the strawberries probably had not been washed in bottled water either so I decided to forgo the rest of it. Teresa said we should just plan on having diarrhea the first 3 weeks we’re here. So far I’ve been able to avoid a bug but I’m sure it’s because we’ve eaten in almost every meal in and been very careful with the water.

I enjoyed visiting with Teresa but it was hard to whine about my inconveniences here, knowing that she’s been living in a tribal situation for the last 6 years! Since water is such a concern, I asked her where they got their water and she just simply said that it falls on the roof and runs through a trough and eventually into a collection tank, where chemicals are used to make it potable. They bathe in the river. Did I mention that Trevor has had malaria 9 or 10 times now? The good news is they have solar electricity and can use a t.v. and computer. Nice!!

After lunch, we caught a cab to the salon for the dreaded haircut. For my women readers, I don’t need to explain this. Finding a new hairdresser is a BIG deal. Ms. Winnie had been recommended to me because a) she speaks English and b) she knows how to cut Caucasian hair. The AC in the cab wasn’t working and after about 15 minutes we realized that our driver had no idea where he was going. After letting him drive around lost a while longer, I called the beauty shop and had them talk to him  (not once but twice) in addition to his stopping to ask directions a few times. When he finally found the place, he had the nerve to pull the “I don’t have any change” trick. So not only did he keep us lost with the meter running, he had the nerve to overcharge us as well! Oh well, such is life.

But... the good news is that Ms. Winnie did indeed know how to cut Caucasian hair and she did a decent job! Come to find out, she’s from near Hong Kong and also has lived in LA for 12 years, so her English is very good and she understood when I asked her to just take ½ inch off while keeping the same cut. As for the salon itself, there were probably at least 15 employees, many just standing around. After discussing what I wanted with Ms. Winnie, I was escorted back to the shampoo room. This wasn’t your normal shampoo bowl – it was a 15-20 scalp and neck massage using shampoo and conditioner while lying flat on my back! Afterwards I was escorted to my chair where I was served Sundanese jasmine tea. Someone put a smock on me and another person removed the towel from my head and massaged my scalp a little more. Ms. Winnie then cut my hair and sent me back to the shampoo room a second time for another shampoo, conditioner and scalp massage before bringing me back out for yet another person to dry my hair. The charge was 235,000 rp including tip (just under $28US). I think I just found myself a hairdresser in Indonesia!

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Vegetable Market

need a pedicab?
Today was, how shall I say it? Uh, a rather sensory experience! Visiting an Indonesian vegetable market is one activity I wouldn't recommend to the faint of heart, and not even one I myself would try again except strictly for the purpose of photo ops. How do I even begin to describe it? As Ronnie once said of our experience in a Chinese market, all senses are in peak mode! That, friends, is an understatement. I simply do not have the words to describe the sights, sounds and especially the smells in this kind of place!

too bad i'm allergic to mangoes!
I had been told by a local that she does not go to the market because of the criminal element. With that bit of info, I knew shopping for veggies would not be something I would feel comfortable doing alone, especially given the fact that I would be there more for the photo ops than the produce. I had mentioned to my landlady a few days earlier that I would like to visit the market with her and low and behold, a few days later she invited me to go along to the market with her. I don't believe this is the same market I was warned about earlier, as it seemed to be more of a smaller neighborhood market. We twisted through a number of one-way streets in the normally chaotic traffic before we arrived there and then of course found parking difficult.

Indonesian packaged snacks
Outside the entrance to the market building on the left was hands down the worst garbage area I've seen or smelled - ever. On the other side of the entrance was a vendor hacking away on coconuts (I'm sure there is a term for this, but I don't know it), a mango vendor and a row of pedicabs whose drivers were trying to stave off  boredom by reading or napping. I assume they were waiting to give shoppers a lift home. There were other vendors scattered along the sidewalk as well, as there are on pretty much  every other street in the city we've been on.

friendly rice vendor
Once inside the market, there is a maze of stalls filled with all sorts of products - snack foods (none you would recognize), fruits and vegetables (many I recognize, many I don't), meats, fish, tofu, rice and many other food items. My host moved quickly from one stall to another as she had clearly done this many times before, making her purchases and leaving her bags behind to be picked up in the reverse order of her shopping. As I mentioned earlier, the sights and smells were really more than I have words to describe. Suffice it to say, it wasn't Krogers either! Flies were in abundance but no one seemed bothered by them. The people working the shops were generally friendly, although I still get a chill remembering the face of the butcher who was killing the chickens and the look he gave me. Like I said, this market was not for the faint of heart.

narrow aisles between stalls
So as not to appear rude, I bought a couple of cup towels and a ripe papaya. When I was getting out of the car back at the apartment, my landlady handed me some type of Indonesian sweet bread with sesame seeds that she had bought in the market. They smelled (and actually tasted) good and I appreciated her very kind gesture, though I couldn't help but wonder how long they had endured that environment before coming home with us.
can you say "skinny chicken?"
 chicken and rice for dinner?

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Morning Walk

good friends
So far we haven't found a gym to join so it looks like Ronnie will be running and swimming and Ronnie at ITB. So what little exercise I'm getting at this point (beyond general walking when we go out) is walking up and down the street behind the apartments. I haven't been brave enough to venture more than 2 or 3 streets away at this point, because I hate to think what would happen if I got myself lost! Between having no sense of direction and not knowing Bahasa, I might really be gone a long time!!

cute threesome
Anyway, I'll share a few photos from a recent morning walk. As I said in an earlier post, people here are generally friendly (particularly the women and children, and especially if I make eye contact and speak first). I had been told that Indonesians usually do not get upset at having their picture taken. It's not easy to be real discreet with a DSLR camera hanging over my shoulder but I try to be as unobtrusive as possible and always use some general sign language to see if they mind my taking their photo. Most people are ok with it and they like it when I show them their image on the back of the camera. According to what I've been told, they do not expect any money in return for allowing you to take their photo as is the case in some places.

street vendor

People photography is fairly difficult because you either have to do it without permission (in which case you feel somewhat voyeuristic) or either you have to be outgoing enough to interact with perfect strangers. Of course children are the easiest to interact with, but if there are parents present they must be asked first. Anyway, I hope you enjoy seeing some of the people I've run across while walking in the neighborhood.

washing rocks
older Indonesian lady









The Street Where We Live

dine in or take out?
huge home behind high walls
Our apartment is in a neighborhood that is a crazy mix of large homes with manicured lawns and guard gates while at the same time home to a chaotic combination of people walking, driving nice cars, riding motorcycles and hole-in-the-wall businesses or carts selling different kinds of food. There is also a military facility at the head of our street, so uniformed soldiers are commonly seen as well.

brothers
While Bandung is on the equator, it is also in the mountains which makes its temperatures surprisingly nice. Average temps are in the 60-70's most of the year, although we have been told it can be a bit cooler in the rainy season. But the mild temperatures are the reasons that most people do not have AC and also the reason they are outside all the time.

Although we live on a dead end street, there is still much traffic coming in and out. It is served with several small "businesses" as well as a take out or dine in place (above). People ride their motorcycles up and get food to go, or some go inside and eat on a table while chickens roam around their feet. Surprisingly, this little "convenience store" does quite a lot of business.


Across from the store are 2 rubber tire swings on a littered parcel of ground. Children can often be seen playing there. And there are usually a few chickens pecking around as well. I usually have my camera with me and I will photograph them if there are no objections. Actually, these two brothers turned out to be little hams! There is also a  split log there that serves as seating while waiting for taxis to pick us up. People are usually friendly and will smile and speak, especially if we smile and speak to them first.
Jan checking e-mail while waiting on taxi

Ronnie running on our street
view off our back balcony
the street where we live