Killybegs, Ireland

Yesterday was a fun day. We were driven from the port along the Wild Atlantic Way coastal road through a number of small communities in Donegal county until we reached the Cunningham family farm. The weather was cold, sprinkling rain and very windy. We were bundled up in several layers for warmth, even though it is the height of their summer. I can only imagine how rough their winters must be! 

 

sailboats docked at the same port as Insignia

 

rock fences designate property lines

countryside of northern Ireland, Donegal country

On the ride out to the farm, our guide talked about the history of the area up through current day. This part of northern Ireland is beautiful and very green (at this time of the year) though somewhat remote. I think the people must be pretty hardy to live there. The terrain is rough and rocky - on the whole not good for anything except sheep farming. There are too many rocks, cliffs and mountains for cattle.

 

houses dot countryside

 

countryside, northern Ireland

She also talked about the Great Famine in the 1800’s when the potato crop failed and resulted in disease, starvation and 1 million deaths in Ireland. Many of our ancestors fled Ireland to come to the United States and Canada at that time. Even now, Ireland is unable to grow a great variety of fresh vegetables that we eat, their diets depending heavily on potatoes, oats, wheat, barley and mostly cruciferous vegetables.

 

pastoral scene with creek running through it

 

Another interesting thing we learned is about peat bog (or the Irish sometimes refer to it as “turf”). Peat bog consists of layers of dead plant material that are used by the farmers as a source of energy. For centuries, farmers have dug up large sections of their land, then cut, dried and stored it for use as fuel. In an effort to reduce CO2 emissions, the government has placed certain bans on the harvesting of peat. Apparently this issue has become a big hairy deal but as far as I can tell, farmers are still allowed to cut bog for their own use on their own property. Some say it has a delightful smell when burned.

 

peat bin (left) winter supply (right)

machinery cuts and bags peat

The farm’s owner, FJ Cunningham, is a third generation sheep farmer. FJ has been training sheepdogs since he was a boy and his knowledge and ability to communicate with his dogs is remarkable. Sheep farming is clearly hard work, and not an easy way to make a living. He was quick to say that there is no way he could do it without the dogs, especially when sheep have to be rounded up and brought in for shearing. Each sheep has its owners paint markings to help with identification/ownership. At one time, there were 21 sheep farmers in the area but now only 8 remain. He sees little hope of the next generation in his own family carrying on the tradition.

 

2 of the working dogs

FJ Cunningham, sheep farmer

FJ calling commands to dog

FJ introduced us to each of his 6 border collie sheep dogs by name, then talked about how he trains his dogs. He waits until they are a year old to begin training them. Once trained, a sheepdog works for 8 years and is then retired. The dogs are a lot like children – they have to learn who is in charge. Sometimes they are deliberately disobedient. When that happens, he sends them back to the pen and they must stay there (usually for 2 or 3 days). They don’t want to be penned (think “time out”) so they decide that they will obey. At that point they earn back their freedom.

He performed a demonstration for us of the dogs moving the sheep clockwise, counterclockwise or however he asked. The dogs are obviously very smart and have a lot of stamina and agility. They are an absolute necessity when it comes to rounding up the sheep, especially since they graze about the country and mountain sides year around.

 

FJ commands dog to bring them in

 

his wish was her command

The dogs are very well cared for. Jack, the brown and white one (nose through fence) is retired and was sleeping on FJ's bed before our group arrived. He accompanied us (“herding” us just a little) down to the field for the sheep herding demonstrations. FJ said that though he is 14 years old, in his head he thinks he can still do the job. I could tell that he clearly wanted to herd sheep because he sat the entire time with his nose sticking through the fence between us, FJ, the working dog and the sheep. It was funny but a little sad at the same time. 

FJ also told us the different commands he uses with the dogs when herding the sheep. Guess what he uses when the job is finished? You’re right – “that’ll do.” If you saw the movie Babe, you will appreciate that!

 

she wants to go sooo bad!

listening to their master

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After the herding demonstration, we boarded the coach for a ride through Donegal County and a stop at a small eatery called “Kelly’s Corner” in the village of Carrick. We were served scones and jam (they call them “scons”) and tea or coffee. I snapped these photos of the church and graveyard just across the street.

 

St. Columba's Catholic Church

Saint Patrick, patron saint of Ireland

cemetery at Saint Columba's Catholic

 

We also made a quick photo stop at Silver Strand, a beach known mostly to locals. It started sprinkling again so I just hopped out and grabbed a couple of quick photos and re-boarded the bus. We both enjoyed the visit to the sheep farm and it was a bonus to ride the narrow roads through the small communities that sprinkle the countryside of northern Island.

 

beach known to locals as Silver Strand

 Northern Ireland countryside meets Atlantic ocean

a beautiful natural bay in northern Ireland

 

darling thatched cottages that we saw on the way to have scones

this is where we were