Saturday, June 6, 2026

Porto Grande, Cape Verde

Porto Grande (Mindelo Bay) is a massive natural harbor on the island of São Vicente in Cape Verde. “Cap-Vert” comes from the Portuguese language. Cabo Verde (green cape) was named by Portuguese explorers in 1444. You would think by its name that everything would be lush and green, but in reality the mountains are extremely barren volcanic rock.

Our ship docked at Mindelo Bay on the north coast of the island of Sao Vincente. On our previous visit to Porto Grande, we were driven up a winding mountain road to the very top of Monte Verde. We remembered the ride up being long, narrow, rocky and gray. We also remembered it being cold, extremely windy and quite foggy at the top, so it took us no time to rule out another trip to the top of the mountain. We decided instead to just get off the ship and wander some of the streets of Mindelo within easy walking distance of the port.


Porto Grande (Vista docked in background)

boats of various kinds docked in the harbor

Mindelo, today the second largest city in the country, was the last of 9 islands to become inhabited. Today it is the second largest city in the country. It is also one of the most developed and democratic countries in Africa.

 

local fishermen sell their catch

   

...and fish drying
lots of dried fish



...and fish being caught

The woman featured on the buildings (below) is Cesária Évora, Cape Verde's greatest musical icon. Évora (“the Barefoot Diva”) was globally famous for singing Morna—the melancholic, soulful national music of the islands. She always performed without shoes to show solidarity with the poor.

 

Cesária Évora


mural on building at the port
 

Here are a few fun facts about Cape Verde.

  • No one lived in Cape Verde Islands until 1456.
  • Cape Verde and Guinea-Bissau were once one country.
  • People in Cape Verde are either African or Portuguese.
  • The long-eared bat is the only native animal to the islands.
  • Sugar cane liquor is the national drink.
  • Only 10% of the land is suitable for agriculture.
  • There are more Cape Verdeans living abroad than there are in the country.
  • It is estimated that there is one goat for every 2 people on the island.
  • Cape Verde is the 3rd largest nesting site for Loggerhead turtles.
  • It is rude to eat in public without sharing your food. 

 https://our-ancestories.com/blogs/news/10-fun-facts-about-cape-verde-islands

I wouldn't be me if I didn't love an open air market and snapping "people pictures." I will say that these are not the easiest type of photography to be successful with for several reasons. Street photography takes some skill which I sometimes have success with and just as often do not. Of course, it's easy to grab a shot of someone who is preoccupied and not aware that a camera is even near, much less being pointed at them. 

But I much prefer to engage with a person and it thrills me if they will actually look into the camera. But in order to achieve that, it is only polite to first ask permission before taking their picture, especially if it is going to be more than a "sneak" shot. Then there is the language barrier, but usually if I point at my phone and then at them, they understand that I am asking permission. This is where I may - or may not have success. Some will give me an adamant "NO" and at that, I smile, shake my head (up and down) and move along. Then occasionally someone is ok with it and will even smile (like the lady with the baby on her back in my last post). It doesn't matter to me if they smile or not - my goal is to try to capture the essence of the person. 

Today I got lucky - 2 older ladies and (I assume) a granddaughter gave me a nod. I also caught an older man looking down the sidewalk, unaware of my camera. Most of the photos I take (and share on this blog) are nothing more than an attempt to document a place. So capturing a couple of "people photos" that aren't blurry or have some other issue makes for a really good day. One other thing I've started doing - when someone gives me permission to take their picture, I do it quickly, then show it to them. Most of the time they seem very happy to see it. I figure that's the least I can do in exchange for the privilege of getting to capture their image.

 




Sao Vincente local


the granddaughter?
closer in



and my favorite



Thursday, June 4, 2026

Banjul, The Gambia

The Gambia a narrow country that sits where the Gambia River flows into the Atlantic ocean. It is almost completely surrounded by Senegal. Banjul is the capital and 4th largest city of The Gambia, which is classified as a developing or "Third World" nation. 

 


As of late yesterday, the extra security that Oceania brought onboard was sent home. With a sigh of relief, we put our jewelry back on, and we can now leave our curtains open, lights on and go back to normal both on and off the ship. Of course we will continue to exercise caution as any tourist should in crowded places.

Yesterday we took a “Highlights of Banjul” tour that carried us to several places around the city. Driving around from the elevated position of a tour bus (thankfully air conditioned!) didn’t allow for the best quality photos, but the slow and sometimes stalled traffic did provide the opportunity to take a lot of them. Hopefully this sampling will provide a glimpse of what life is like in a busy and crowded African city. 


busy market area

 

Our tour included a trip to a batik factory, the Gambian National Museum, the Katchically Crocodile Pool, market area streets and the Banjul Albert market. I took waaaay too many pictures!

 



Kachikally Sacred Crocodile Pool & Museum


photo op with a live crocodile


100+ crocodiles
thankful for zoom!

 

Gambian National Museum

 

learning about their heritage

explaining batik process
friendly worker



batik for sale

 


 

A few facts about The Gambia – there is a lot of poverty here. It is 95% Muslim with 3 main sects – Sunni, Ahmadiyya and Shi’ite (Sunni being the large majority). I’m guessing this probably reflects the differences in women’s attire. Sharia law is practiced here and polygamy is common.


 

all of these women managed to get inside this tuk tuk!


Sunni woman sells potatoes & onions

Perhaps this (polygamy) relates to the fast growth rate? The population of the city proper is 26,461 with the 2026 metro area population of 527,000.

Petty theft and violent crime are on the increase, especially in crowded markets and public transportation. 

Below are some observations I made as we rode through the city and saw Gambians going about their everyday lives. 

* People sell whatever fruits/veggies/fish/crafts they have. If not dealing with a customer, they are looking at their phones while others (mostly men) sit idle.

* Cars, bicycles, pedestrians, scooters, donkey carts and wheelbarrows all contend for the same road space.

 


 


* Women carry heavy loads on their heads and babies on backs, sometimes both at the same time. 

* Trash is EVERYWHERE. 

 

they don't seem to be bothered by it...
 

....although it is very noticeable to visitors

* There are an unusual number of old tires lying around.

* Buildings are run down.

* A lot of shoes are in the markets – some used and some new. 

* Goats run loose along the roads, in the market (I saw one standing inside the house) 

* Most of the cars are older models that need body work. Cars that haven’t been driven in awhile sit covered with brown dirt. 

* It is amazing how many people can squeeze inside a mid-sized vehicle (9 or 10).

* Our tour was interrupted once while we waited for our guide to pray (Muslims are required to pray 5 times a day as part of the 5 Pillars of Islam).   

 

lots of un-driveable cars sit idle


picnic at the mosque


field trip to the Sacred Crocodile Pool

bicycle girl
market lady


delicious mangos for sale


along for the ride
  
wood carver
       


malnourished goats run loose


      
sidewalk egg seller
blackened fish?


a busy market street in Banjul, The Gambia


I could say a lot more about our walk through the market. It was a total sensory experience, and not in a good way. The heat, flies and terrible odor (plus the threat of pickpockets) prevent one from being able to enjoy it for very long.

As I said, I took way too many photos, and I'm posting more than I usually allow myself. There are likely nicer parts of the city that we did not see (?) but hopefully these are an accurate representation of what life is like for many people in the city of Banjul, The Gambia. 

Thank God if you were born in the United States of America!