Apia, Samoa

Today feels kind of weird. Last night when we went to bed, it was Saturday, March 28. This morning when we woke it was Monday, March 30. We completely slept through Sunday! Actually, what we did was cross the International Date Line during the night which caused us to lose a complete day.

Today we’re docked in the capital city of Apia, Samoa. Apia offers a “rare blend of colonial history, lush tropical beauty and the enduring spirit of Fa’a Samoa or the Samoan Way.” It is sometimes referred to as “a modern Pacific capital that has never lost its ancient pulse.” Apia is also home to a bustling sea port. There is much to see and do here if one has the time and energy. 

busy port

It has rained off and on all day. My first day out in a week, I was able to attend an early “church” service last night on the ship to celebrate Palm Sunday - a day early. Today I am still very much recovering from whatever upper respiratory crud I’ve had this past week. 

believers from various denominations - Palm "Saturday"??

I even slept through at least 100 Samoan dancers and drummers who greeted our ship’s arrival this morning. By the time I was awake, it was all over and they were loading into their buses. I caught a picture of a few of them from our balcony. 

friendly local dancers

 

leaving by the time I looked out

Ronnie is feeling much better and even took advantage of being in a place where he could run this morning. He must have timed his run perfectly as it was raining before he left and has continued to rain since his return. I’ll post a few photos he took during his run this morning.

Immaculate Conception Cathedral

Vista docked in background

Locals selling their handicrafts set up booths in the parking lot just across from our ship but I haven’t even ventured out to take a look. Instead, I’m taking full advantage of having a literal “day off” and resting in our room. I’ve started a new book that I’m enjoying, and am thankful for the luxury of having nothing to do except rest. We were supposed to attend a birthday dinner for a friend tonight but cancelled because I don’t feel comfortable dining with others with a lingering cough.

Ronnie has been much more social than I so far. He has joined a Trivia Team (meets daily on sea days) and works the Mensa challenge each day. He's also found a ukulele group that meets each sea day, which is helping with his strumming and learning some new songs.

 

ukulele group

 

Late this afternoon, the skies cleared again and another group of dancers showed up. I snapped a few photos from our balcony.

 

 

Panoramic Pago Pago

Pago Pago, considered the gateway to American Samoa, is one of the world's most spectacular natural harbors. It is often described as the "Pearl of the Pacific." Pago Pago Harbor is one of the deepest natural harbors in the world. It was formed by a collapsed volcanic caldera.

 

our early morning arrival into Pago Pago

This morning our ship was greeted by local dancers along with Miss American Somoa. Apparently they don't get a lot of cruise ships in this harbor; at least it was a first for Oceania.  

 

local dancers on dock to greet our arrival

Miss American Samoa performed with dancers

Being close to the equator, it's hot and humid just as you would expect. Today I ventured off the ship for the first time in a week. I think everyone was ready to get off after so many days at sea. It felt good to get out in spite of the heat and humidity.  

Our excursion today took us to attend an ava (ah-va) ceremony. By definition, an ava ceremony is "a sacred, highly formal Samoan ritual used to honor guests, bestow titles, and mark signicant occasions, representing the highest protocol of respect, unity and friendship. I will say that the ceremony itself wasn't all that impressive, but it was an authentic taste of America Somoa's hospitality.

Our ride was memorable. The buses were originally school buses - many years ago. The inside had been stripped and the interior was all wood - seats, windows, ceiling and floors. The buses are used as public transportation. To signal the driver that one wants to get off, one needs to pull on a string that circles the ceiling, which in turn rings a bell. There are lots of air fresheners hanging from the string - likely for good reason. I mentioned to Ronnie that it's a wonder the ceiling doesn't leak. I spoke too soon. As soon as the rain came, a drip developed above my head. Of course these buses are not air conditioned. Air comes in through the open windows unless it is raining, in which case the windows are closed, you have no fresh air and the roof is leaking. 

 

The ceremony was held in one of many pavilion-like structures on the island. The meaning of the ava ceremony is basically used to show  hospitality and welcome guests. The root of the ava plant is dug up, cleaned and dried, then ground into powder that is then stirred into water. It is said to have a bitter, earthy taste. It may create a feeling of numbness on the tongue. If enough is consumed, it will intoxicate a person. It is not fermented, but I would imagine like most alcoholic beverages it would have to be an acquired taste. After the princess mixes the drink, the warriors exchange some loud words and the liquid is offered to the recipient in a coconut shell. This is followed by dancing with the princess.

 

setting for ava ceremony

princess and warriors make their entrance

Following the ava ceremony, we loaded back into the buses and were taken to a local market. The road up and back was wind-ey but scenic (when it wasn't raining) with gorgeous views of the bay in places. 

 

 

From there we were taken back to the ship for a late lunch. While riding along in the bus, our guide shared lots of interesting facts about her country with us.

* American Somoa is approximately the size of Washington, DC. 

* American Somoa is the last country to ring in the new year. Their neighbor Western Somoa is the first. They are divided by the International Date Line, so they are a day apart. 

* Somoans can and do bury family members in the yard. They are not required to exhume them upon the sale of the property except at new owners request, and then only if it's been 20 years. 

* 80% of American Samoa's economy is dependent on 2 US tuna canneries 

* American Samoa has 5 volcanic islands and 2 coral atolls.

* American Samoa has been an American territory for 125 years.

* American Samoa is closer to New Zealand than the continental U.S.

* As an unincorporated territory of the United States, American Samoa citizens classify as US Nationals, not US citizens. Nationals have all the same privileges as citizens with one exception - voting for US presidents (they elect their own government and they maintain their chief system).

* The American Samoa airline, Samoa Air, instituted a pay-by-weight system for passengers.

* American Samoa has such a wide diversity of fish, that if you were to dive around the reefs once a week, in theory you could see a new fish species every dive for 18 years.

 

helping mama

 

leis and head pieces for sale

brooms and bananas

local handmade jewelry

Starkist's Charlie the Tuna

Tonight our Bible study had "church" a day early because we will skip Sunday! It's March 28 as I write this and we will be crossing the International Date Line as we sleep. When we wake tomorrow morning it will be March 30!

 

 

Rarotonga, Cook Islands

This was sunset from our balcony last evening as we departed Raiatea and set sail for Rarotonga in the Cook Islands. I was hoping that I might possibly feel well enough to just get off the ship and walk around for a few minutes this morning.

 

However, today turned out to be another missed port due to horrible weather! We arrived early this morning in Rarotonga. The port is not large enough for our ship to dock, so plans were to tender in. In fact, the first couple of tenders had already headed toward the island when the weather suddenly turned ugly. Ronnie had taken the photo below from our balcony as we were coming into port. Notice how smooth the water is in this photo.

 

threatening clouds over Rarotonga

  

It was my first time out of the room in several days, so we decided to go to the dining room (quieter, fewer people) since I still have a cough. We were seated by a window and perhaps within 20-30 minutes of when the photo above photo was taken, it was raining hard and we could see the loaded tenders rocking back and forth, side to side in the water. I can't imagine how the folks inside were holding down their breakfasts!

Soon after ordering our food, the captain came over the intercom to announce that it was too dangerous to run the tenders and we would be getting everyone back on board to head to our next destination. This makes our 4th missed port due to weather. Disappointing for sure, but we do understand and appreciate our safety being the ship's first priority!

We watched as the crewmen struggled to get both tenders back to the ship. It was amazing how quickly the weather turned from good to bad, then back again. The swells died down and we were treated to a beautiful rainbow as we sailed on. 

Ronnie now has the crud I've been dealing with for the past several days, but he is responding much faster to the antibiotic than I am. However, the fact that I felt well enough to go to breakfast this morning is progress. I will spend the rest of the day resting and taking in more fluids. Honestly, if one has to be sick, a cruise ship is not a bad place to do it. Room service 24/7 from any restaurant on board, laundry service, all sorts of in-room TV and movie selections, etc. I'm really not complaining, just ready to get rid of this cough and sleep at night.

It's mid-day now and we're sailing toward Pago Pago, once again under fluffy white clouds and sunny skies. 

 

 

Raiatea, French Polynesia

Day 78 of our 180 day trip around the world finds us on yet another French Polynesian island, Raiatea. Last evening we departed Papeete and sailed toward another beautiful island as we slept, waking just as we were pulling into port in Raiatea. 

 

sailing away from Papeete last evening

 

island hopping

but waking up to this...

 

As you can see, it is still very cloudy and overcast here in the Polynesian islands. Raiatea, meaning "faraway heaven" and "sky with soft light" is the second largest of the Society Islands, after Tahiti in French Polynesia. It is also considered by locals as the most sacred island in the South Pacific. 

Despite the inclement weather, it seems that most of the passengers are off the ship today, either on planned excursions or shopping in one of many stores within easy walking distance of the ship. Ronnie got off for a short time this morning to pick up some treats for our room stewards but I've been a slug all day - still a lot of coughing and no energy. I've started myself on an antibiotic (the only one I have with me) so hopefully it will get things turned around. Ronnie isn't feeling 100% himself so I'm hoping he's not coming down with the same thing I have. :-(

Back to Raiatea - supposedly there is a rare flower grown here that grows at no other place on earth. It is called the Tiare apetahi and is considered the "emblem of the holy island". Each dawn the petals open with a slight crackling sound. Legend describes this as the "sound of the broken heart of a common woman who was not allowed to marry the son of the Tahitian king." The flower structure where the petals are arranged or developed are only on one side. I can't imagine its scent being even more wonderful than plumeria!

Moorea, French Polynesia

Moorea is a heart-shaped island in French Polynesia. It is known for its dramatic volcanic peaks, turquoise lagoons and relaxed island vibe. It is only a short ferry ride from Tahiti and is advertised to travelers who are “seeking adventure, culture and indulgence in equal measure”. 

This was the scene as we pulled into Moorea early this morning. I took the first 2 and last  photos from our balcony. Kudos and photo credits to Ronnie for the remaining photos today.

 

first view from balcony as ship enters Moorea

sun burns away cloud covered peaks

 

Unfortunately, my upper respiratory stuff worsened overnight, so I was in no condition to go on our planned excursion today. It would have been nice if we had had time to find someone else to go in my place but we needed to be off the boat by 8 a.m. Anyway, there were others Ronnie knew from the ship who went. I just hated to waste an excursion ticket. Anyway, I think they had a good time but it was extremely hot and everyone got jostled around pretty good in the back of an open 4x4 with bench seats.

 

today's tour guide

coconut soap for sale

 

pineapple fields

 

gorgeous beaches, crystal clear water

view from our balcony

 

As you can see, we are surrounded by beauty on every side. But to be honest, today has been a complete downer because we are all so sad for our friend Tom who lost his wife yesterday during a snorkeling trip. Some who were with Ronnie today were also with Tom and his wife yesterday when it happened. Tonight we sailed to Papeete where he will board a plane to fly home with her body tomorrow morning.

One couple in our Bible study group is spending the night tonight in an over water bungalow. The husband was bit by a trigger fish today; thankfully those are not dangerous. I’ve been resting in our cabin all day, only stepping out on the balcony to take a few photos of our beautiful surroundings. As always, thanks for tagging along. It really boosts our spirits to hear from family and friends. 

Rangiroa, French Polynesia

It was another hot but beautiful day in the Polynesian islands. We arrived around 7 a.m. and were off the ship by around 8:30 a.m. Rangiroa (“huge sky”}  is the old Paumotu name of the Rangiroa’s atoll. An atoll is a body of water separated from a large body of water by a natural barrier (I had to look that up). 

 

Rangiroa means "huge sky"

We did ride the tender over to the island today – it was just too gorgeous not to! I’m so thankful, though, that we didn’t have an excursion planned. We walked around for a bit under umbrellas (the sun is brutal!) but didn’t stay too long. There were the usual arts and craft booths set up for cruise visitors and of course different excursions offered, mostly to do with snorkeling and water-related sports and one to a local black pearl factory. 

 

bridge from tender to shore

Oceania's Vista - our home away from home

We were greeted by male and female hula dancers along with a drummer. I managed to snap a few pictures as we passed by. After my one hula lesson, I've developed a greater appreciation for their artistry.

 

Rangiroa is the largest atoll of French Polynesia and the second largest in the world. The inhabitants of Rangiroa live in 2 main villages - Avatoru and Tiputa, 2 islets separated by a pass. The rest of the atoll is almost uninhabited except for coconut plantations where the coprah is cultivated. (I had to look that one up too.) Coprah is “the dried, white flesh or kernel of the coconut, produced by sun-drying or smoking. It is primarily processed to extract coconut oil and is a valuable agricultural commodity used in making soaps, detergents, shampoos, and margarine. The byproduct, copra cake, is used as livestock feed.” I think it’s cool how all the parts are used, and even the shells are used in craft making.

 

jewelry made using black pearls

  

Although it was only 82 degrees, the humidity was high, making it feel much hotter. Oceania really looks after us by offering wet towels from an ice chest and ice cold water as we straggle back to the tender.

 

 

 

 

I think I may have relapsed from my crud, maybe from overdoing it the day before yesterday? My cough has returned and I’m not feeling well. Unfortunately we have excursions booked (and pre-paid) for the next 2 days, so I will drag myself out unless there is just no way.

Here’s a link on Rangiroa if interested. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rangiroa As always, thanks for following along.

 

PS This afternoon there was an "code mike" announcement over the ship's loud speaker. We all know this is not good when this happens, or at least know that someone's health is in serious jeopardy. Never do we expect it to be someone we know. However, a couple from Ft. Worth that we met on our 2023 ATW cruise is once again sailing with us. They had an excursion to go snorkeling this afternoon. Apparently she collapsed and died from a heart attack while snorkeling. He will be flying home with her body the day after tomorrow. I won't mention his name, but please pray for him. Of course he is still in shock.