The Trip That Wasn't

Vietnamese young man (deaf)

The cruise to Halong Bay had been highly recommended to us before our trip to Hanoi. So we and another Fulbright couple booked a one night trip to see Halong Bay after the conference. The four of us were picked up at our hotel for a 3-4 hour drive to Halong Bay. On the way there, we had one really nice rest break at a place where literally any kind of handcrafted item from Vietnam could be purchased. I especially enjoyed the area where disabled Vietnamese worked tediously on needlework “paintings.” Framed and under glass, they looked like paintings but upon close examination one could see the careful embroidery work. Even though a sign read “no cameras” they gave me permission to take photos. As in all Asian retail outlets, several salespeople followed us closely, eager to make a sell.

handicapped Vietnamese "painting" with needle and thread

the stitching is very detailed and tedious

Tom & Anne Weeks (Ohio)

The drive itself was harrowing. The weather was foggy and drizzly. As in Indonesia, the middle line on a Vietnamese highway seems to be mostly a suggestion and our driver spent lots of time driving on it. It was only when we drove on the wrong side of the road (even the shoulder of the wrong side at one point!) that my stomach did flip flops. I sat behind the driver so I could see all too well. Visualize traveling at a high rate of speed while vehicles from oncoming traffic are doing the same. Throw trucks, bicycles, motorscooters and cars into the mix and you start to get the idea…

Baichay Tourist Wharf

welcoming guests

After our arrival at Baichay Tourist Wharf, we were greeted by our guide and held in a reception area while ours along with hundreds of other passengers luggage were loaded onto one of the many Chinese junks docked there. After a relatively short wait, we were ferried out to our junk which was surprisingly beautiful and clean (only 1 year old). We were welcomed aboard with ginger tea and seated for orientation. As with any cruise, we were shown the correct way to wear our life jackets and the “if there is not time” way.

one of many junks owned by Indochina Sails

Chinese junks socked in by fog

view from junk's bow

modern bath with huge shower

cabins were spacier than I expected

view from front deck

inside sitting and dining

ferry back to wharf

Our first clue that we would not be sailing should have been when we were served lunch before being allowed to settle into our cabins. As we were completing a 4 course meal (linen tablecloths and all), our host informed us he that he was afraid he had “a little bit of bad news” and that we would not be sailing. This explained why there were so many ships around us, none of them leaving. The ship’s personnel was very kind to contact our driver for us (since we had no way of communicating), book a new hotel reservation and ferry us and our luggage back to shore, while assuring us that credit cards would be refunded. We learned that this happens on average once a month.

While we were disappointed that we weren’t able to cruise, we did get to see the countryside between Hanoi and Halong Bay (many rice paddies), an array of local handicrafts and enjoy one meal aboard a Chinese junk. After a drizzly 4 hour drive back (the last half after dark) we were happy to see the hotel again.

Here’s a beautiful video of what we would have seen, had the fog not thwarted our trip.