Sisingaan Dancing in West Java

Amazingly, I was able to find a youtube video of the sisingaan dance (circumcision ceremony) that was taken here in Bandung. It is probably very similar to what had just taken place as we drove up the hill to meet our friends for lunch yesterday. Click on the arrow above to get an idea of the sights and sounds of this traditional dance.

this certainly looks innocent enough

Ok, so I’ve learned a little more about the “lion dancers” (my name for them) that we saw yesterday. Ferry volunteered that the name of the dance is sisingaan. By knowing the name and having google at my disposal, I was able to understand the meaning of this traditional West Javanese folk dance.

sisingaan dancers take a break on roadside

finished for the day

By the time we headed home, the 

dancers were loaded up and leaving.

Sisingaan was traditionally used in West Java for circumcision ceremonies and other ritual events. According to Ferry, it is sometimes used at weddings. With only a “drive by” glimpse of the children playing on the lions and the costumed dancers resting by the roadside, Ronnie and I mistakenly thought it was some type of carnival ride or entertainment.

But after learning more about it, I’ll be honest and say that sisingaan scares the bejeebies out of me. Why? Isn't sisingaan dancing simply entertainment? Read on...

Sisingaan is a celebration of music and dance that announces to the community that a boy has been circumcised. Men wearing colorful costumes (pants, headbands, belts, shoes) carry stretchers with lions mounted on top and dance to the music of traditional Indonesian instruments (wooden trumpet, percussion, kempul, gong and kecrek). These dances sometimes involve acrobatic, dance and martial arts movements. According to one source (link below) “the tunes are rhythmic and repetitive, foretelling about the possession at the end of the day with their trance-like quality.”

Circumcision is significant, in that it announces that the child is now part of the Muslim umma (community of believers) and their formal religious training is about to commence.

dancers practice before show at Saung Angklung Ugjo

As with many folk customs, there is a spiritual element involved. Though most articles I found were in bahasa Indonesia and didn’t translate well enough to be helpful, I was fortunate to find one in English that outlines from beginning to end what is involved in this ceremonial “dance.” In describing the preparations leading up to sisangaan, it states “To prepare for a safe performance the local spirits and ancestors are invited. The opening includes a mixture of Islamic prayers and offerings of coconuts, sugar, fruit, betel, small pieces of meat, cigarettes, sweet smelling balm and incenses. An old man recites the proper mantras over the offerings and burns the incense. Each of the members approaches the offerings and meditates for a moment in front of them, inhaling the fragrances…” (cont.)

The article below “Entertainment and circumcisions: sisingaan dancing in West Java” is lengthy but it is an interesting read if you desire to know more.

http://www.globalstudies.gu.se/digitalAssets/809/809976_hellman.pdf

Today's Favorites

Each day as I'm out and about, I'm snapping photos and it's always exciting to get back to the apartment and upload them and see what I have. As is often the case, all of today's (with exception of horse and shoe repairman) were taken from the back seat of our moving car. Thankfully, the traffic often slows us enough that I can grab shots through the window as we pass. Of course I miss more shots than I actually get and that can be frustrating. But still I try. The opportunity to take so many "people photos" is one thing I will actually miss about Indonesia.

a most friendly pair

This man and woman were waiting by the road when we pulled out of the grocery store parking lot. I snapped this before they saw me. When he did turn and make eye contact, I waved and he bowed (hands together, head forward) twice. I'm not exactly sure what it means but I do it back. What I really wanted to do was take their photo as they both looked toward me, but I didn't want to offend them. As we drove off, I was disappointed I didn't get the shot I really wanted.

riding lions?

Today as we were driving up to meet our friends Helen and Dan for lunch, we passed these kids on the side of the road. They were playing on and "riding" some stuffed lions. Turns out, these lions (carried on poles) rest atop dancers shoulders while music plays and the kids ride atop the lions. The costumed dancers were resting when we passed by. Ferry said that it was part of a wedding celebration. On the way back they were already loaded up to leave. Another photo op....missed.

an example of "how many does it take?"

It's common to see entire families riding on one scooter. The kids are always scrunched between the parents. If there are 5, then a 3 year old can ride in front of the driver (standing) and the other kids are sandwiched between the parents. The mother always holds the infant in her arms.

daughter sandwich

The men below are day laborers. They wait with their baskets (right) and tools, hoping for someone to come along and hire them to do a job.

ready for hire

Several horses trotted by as I was waiting in front of the barber shop for Ronnie to get another 76 cent haircut. Horses and riders gather where children can be found to offer rides. According to Ferry, it costs 20,000 rupiah (close to $2 US) for a ride around the park. To prevent the horses from pooping in the street, inner tubes attached to their tails do the trick - pretty ingenious!

is this a small horse? or is it just me?

sign in Lantera - tarot, tofu, chicken, rice

view from my window seat in the restaurant

foot traffic on street that runs off Dago

I'm always amazed at the things people do for a living. Many of the street sellers carry their wares by balancing a wooden pole across the shoulder and carrying produce or what-have-you in baskets or cooking containers. The man pictured below is a shoe re-soler. If you need new soles, he can replace them while you wait. Many people here re-sole shoes for a living. Some are mobile as this man is, and others set up "shop" in a public park or somewhere other re-solers congregate. I found a story about a shoe resoler in Jakarta to give you some idea of how difficult it is to make a living doing this.

http://www.thejakartaglobe.com/city/my-jakarta-pak-yunus-shoe-resoler/330243

got soles?

 little girls sitting roadside as we chugged up the hill today

The 2 below were also taken from the car - I like color!

some kind of fruity drinks

chicken porridge

Just Mixin' it Up

Today is another "no topic" day. As I occasionally do, I'm sharing a few recent photos and commenting on each one. I hope you will find them interesting.

Be careful!

I noticed this sign in the mall parking garage today as we were cutting through to Jl Cihampelas (commonly referred to as Jean Street by tourists). There's never a time this street is without traffic but beginning on Friday and on through the weekend, it's best if you can avoid it completely. However, I was on the hunt for a special item that is typically found on this street, so we decided to brave it using Ferry as our guide. Keep in mind there are no traffic lights or designated places to cross the street. The sign above seems much more appropriate on the street than in the parking garage.

busy Jl Cihampelas - there is an art to crossing the street here

My advice on crossing a street in Bandung? Stick very close to someone who has had more experience with street crossing than you have. Extend your arm out like you are stopping traffic as you inch your way, step by step, toward the opposite side. Make eye contact with as many drivers as you can. And last but not least, make sure you are all prayed up! These are the exact same steps to follow when you are driving and trying to turn across traffic. It's all a matter of skillful negotiation.
 

 Dwi & Lena Widyantoro and family with Ronnie

Sunday we were invited to Pak Dwi's home for lunch. He lives about an hour from ITB (commutes in each day). Truthfully, we had been dreading it, not because they are not very nice people but we were just hoping they didn't serve something that our western sensibilities might strongly object to. Fortunately, it was a very typical Indonesian meal that consisted of fried tofu, tempe, kerupuk (they serve this with every meal - think fish flavored rice cake), chicken wings, steamed rice, a vegetable salad and some kind of beef dish. Everything was very good! Lena, who holds a Ph.D. in Geophysics, and their oldest daughter (red shirt) prepared it.

The table was nicely set but plates and utensils were all placed upside down. Now that we've lived here awhile, I understand this because I do it too. It has to do with the cicaks (lizards) that we share our living space with. Btw: my friend Marcia tells me that they are very territorial and that a 6-7 inch black one lives in her daughter's closet! :(

whoo, me?

Now this little guy was just about the cutest thing I've seen in a long time. Ferry and I had stopped on the side of the road to look at bird cages. I noticed this fuzzy little round thing (smaller than a tennis ball) perched on a branch above one of the cages. I learned that it was a baby owl that had fallen from its nest. He had been rescued by the bird/cage seller. Supposedly he will fledge when he's ready but always return to this spot that he will consider home. We woke him up so that he could eat a cricket and I could snap a few photos.

Pak Jani & Ronnie

This is Ronnie and Pak Jani at his guard stand down the road from our apartment. Pak Jani is a street sweeper and he does a good job keeping his section of the road tidy. Never mind the trash, but he faithfully sweeps the leaves anytime they fall. No matter how many times we go up and down the street in a day, we always greet each other with a wave and a smile. Ronnie befriended him when he had Ferry take him a jar of peanut butter and a box of Ritz crackers for his guard stand. We believe this is where he lives.

school girls in uniform

Today as we were cutting through the mall to get over to Jean Street, these girls were looking us over so I spoke to them. Then I turned back and asked if I could take their photo. No one turned me down so I snapped a quick one. I thanked them and kept walking but I could hear their laughter as I left.

snails for sale?

I've mentioned several times before how entrepreneurial the Indonesian people seem to be and how they come up with so many ways to make a rupiah. The photo above is an excellent example. Someone had collected snails and painted bright colors on their shells.  I have no idea how many were sold, or at what price, but they appeared to be a big hit with the kids at a Kartina festival.

 monkey photoshoot

If you've followed this blog, you already know that monkeys are commonly seen entertaining at intersections. Some ride scooters or bikes in cowboy hats; others jump through hoops and perform various other un-monkey like activities - for a fee, of course. Some people rent a monkey for one day's use. I have often tried to photograph them while moving through a busy intersection, but with only limited success. This week as I was going into an outlet, this little guy had gathered quite a crowd. What was he doing? Nothing much. His homemade monkey-size bike was lying casually on the side while he snacked and watched funny people with cameras. (Side note: I had to walk past a pile of smelly, fly covered dead fish to get this shot - I really hope you like it!)

monkey & friends

I had my first kelapa madu (young coconut) when I was with my friend Marcia this week.The truth is, I really wasn't even sure what she had ordered until it was served. Kelapa madu is nothing more than a fresh coconut full of its own juice, served with a glass of ice (optional) and gula merah (brown sugar, melted from its hard form). You sip the juice through a straw, then dig the flesh out with the spoon. And to think - the first time we got one of these we threw it away, thinking it was ruined! The meat of a young coconut is thinner and somewhat slimy vs the old coconuts we're used to seeing where the flesh is thick and hard. Indonesians refer to the old ones as "vegetable" coconuts and only use them in cooking.

kelapa madu ( young coconut)

Here's Ronnie getting a well deserved ice cream treat. The ice cream "peddler" rides through the neighborhood each evening. He plays his loud music and is ready to dole out the treats for the kids that have money (and Ronnie).

the ice cream cycle

And speaking of ice cream.... I actually ordered purple sweet potato ice cream when I lunched with several women from the Bible study group this week. The green stuff on top is fermented cassava (didn't like) and the clear stuff is some kind of "jello" that Indonesians are big on. The purple "ice cream" was not sweet and very pulpy textured. I love sweet potatoes and I love ice cream - just not combined. Notice it was served in a frozen bamboo cup.

Kartini's Day - Pt 2

In response to pressure from Kartini's polygamist father, she  became the 4th wife of the mayor of Rembang. She let go of her own educational dream but he supported her in starting a school for women. Unfortunately she died only 1 year later a few days after giving birth to a son.

In 1964, President Soekarno named Kartini as an Indonesian Heroine and declared her birthday as an Indonesia National Day. Source http://www.bali3000.com/article/Kartini.asp (more details).

On Tuesday as Ferry was taking me to the store, we spotted a Kartini celebration with children in Indonesian dress so he stopped to let me take photos (he knows I love to photograph kids).

Let me just say that it takes quite a bit of nerve to walk into the middle of a Muslim celebration uninvited. There is no being subtle about it. My presence couldn’t have been more obvious if I’d had “BULE” written across my forehead in flashing lights. I didn’t know a single person there, didn’t have children or grandchildren in the school and had no invitation or knowledge of what was going on. I just showed up with my camera and got in the whole big middle of it and started taking photos.

Though aware that many curious eyes had settled on me, I proceeded to snap away. I fully expected to be asked to stop (or leave) any second. Sure enough, within a minute or so, a Muslim lady came up to me and started questioning me. I don’t recall a Muslim ever speaking to me in English, except for our sponsor and driver, so that was a big surprise. After an exchange, she apparently deemed me harmless and let me continue snapping.

A fashion show was just starting so I crouched in front of the stage as long as my legs would allow. I wish I could have stayed even longer, but as you can see I did manage to snap quite a few. Initially I was referring to the children's clothes as "costumes" (assuming they were from different Indonesian islands) but Ferry pointed out that they were just Muslim clothes. I had fun playing with some photo software so that is why each one looks a little different. Enjoy!

 

 And my favorite....(Balinese?)