Runavik, Faroe Islands - Pt 1

This morning we woke in the Faroe Islands, which I had never even heard of until I saw them on our itinerary. We were off the ship early since we had scheduled a morning excursion. The first thing we learned was that it was a national holiday so there was a change in our original itinerary. It turned out to be fine because we probably enjoyed it just as much as we would have enjoyed the museum.

As we drove along, our 5^th generation local guide shared some facts with us about the Faroe Islands and his hometown of Runavik. He made the point of saying they are not Norwegian and they are not Danish (although they are a part of the Danish kingdom). His great great grandparents along with the others who settled there survived mainly by farming or raising sheep and later cows. The island’s main economy now is largely based on fishing. He boasted that they have enough fish for every person on the planet to have one meal per year. That’s a lot of people and a lot of fish!

It was SUPER windy and sprinkling rain when we left the ship. We were driven to a sheep farm which had been in the same family for multiple generations. The 100 or so yard walk from the bus to the grass roofed barn was a challenge. The wind was so fierce it almost turned my brand new heavy duty umbrella inside out! It was a total waste of time to try to do anything with my hair. Once inside, the sheep farmer showed us a sampling of the sheep they raise (5 different colors). He explained their life cycle (breeding, birthing, shearing, slaughtering, etc) and how every part of the animal is used.

 

sheep barn (notice turf roof)

2 of the 5 varieties they raise

explaining sheep's wool

      

dried sheep horderves

yarn, shearers, recently sheared wool

 

We were offered small (but large enough!) samples of dried sheep meat and sausage on his mother’s homemade bread along with rhubarb juice to drink. I challenged myself to try the sausage (not terrible if you pop the whole thing in your mouth, chew fast and don’t think about it) but one lady tried the dried sheep meat and said “it tasted just like they smell.” I took her word for it. 😉

Rarely does an excursion end without giving the visitors a chance to shop a little, so we were taken to the nearby Navia shop where this same enterprising family sells their woolen goods (sweaters, socks, yard, knitting supplies etc) along with high end outdoor clothing, boots and various gift items. https://www.navia.fo/en/

a knitter's paradise

you name it, we got it!

buttons, buttons....

...and more buttons

The 3-D knitting machine below can make one sweater per hour, which it would take 800 ladies (time wise) knitting in the traditional way.

From there we were driven to a multi-generational dairy operation. Being from Texas, you’d think that would be pretty boring and stinky. Not so! This operation was totally modernized and high end. Upon arrival we were ushered upstairs into a café area where we were served coffee and chocolate cake. We could look through the large glass wall down into the “barn” area that houses the cows. Believe it or not, these cows have never even been outside a day in their life! They live indoors where they casually walk around into any area they choose, lie down and sleep and/or eat freely. Their living space includes rotary massagers (back up against them for a good back scratch), a TV on the wall and robotic milkers.

lounging cows (left) eating cows (right)

fresh hay 24/7

cruising cow (note spinning massage brushes)

milking robot (excuse poor quality)

Whenever a cow wants to be milked, they walk in and the robot hooks them up and does the rest. However, if they go sooner than 3 hours, the computer reads the chip in their ear and sends them away, telling them to come back a little later. I kid you not! Supposedly, the TV on the wall is meant to “provide visual stimulation, reduce stress and prevent boredom.” Pictures of green pastures or gentle streams will supposedly increase their milk production. These cows have the life!

Here are some Faroe Island and “sheep facts” we learned.

* Faroe Islands means “sheep islands”. There are 18 islands that are about half the size of France. They have a total population of 55,000 persons and 85,000 sheep.

* Wool is the “gold” of Faroe Islands.

* Locals eat the sheep (do not export) and do not waste any part of them.

* Sheep meat is hung in drying houses for fermentation (there are no insects). They boil them, dry them, make sausage, etc.

* Sheep houses provide shelter and food for the sheep in winter. There are 30 sheep for every 1 ram.

* Normal lifespan is 7 years, then half of the flock is slaughtered.

* The yellow oily substance on their wool is lanolin, which waterproofs and protects their skin from the elements.

* Children start learning English in Grade 4.

* Local schools have banned ipads and knitting needles!

* Nowadays 3D knitting machines (Japanese technology) replace 800 ladies knitting (4 machines, can knit a sweater in 1 hour)

* Last winter they had 6 feet of snow in just 2 months.