Pago Pago, considered the gateway to American Samoa, is one of the world's most spectacular natural harbors. It is often described as the "Pearl of the Pacific." Pago Pago Harbor is one of the deepest natural harbors in the world. It was formed by a collapsed volcanic caldera.
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| our early morning arrival into Pago Pago |
This morning our ship was greeted by local dancers along with Miss American Somoa. Apparently they don't get a lot of cruise ships in this harbor; at least it was a first for Oceania.
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| local dancers on dock to greet our arrival |
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| Miss American Samoa performed with dancers |
Being close to the equator, it's hot and humid just as you would expect. Today I ventured off the ship for the first time in a week. I think everyone was ready to get off after so many days at sea. It felt good to get out in spite of the heat and humidity.
Our excursion today took us to attend an ava (ah-va) ceremony. By definition, an ava ceremony is "a sacred, highly formal Samoan ritual used to honor guests, bestow titles, and mark signicant occasions, representing the highest protocol of respect, unity and friendship. I will say that the ceremony itself wasn't all that impressive, but it was an authentic taste of America Somoa's hospitality.
Our ride was memorable. The buses were originally school buses - many years ago. The inside had been stripped and the interior was all wood - seats, windows, ceiling and floors. The buses are used as public transportation. To signal the driver that one wants to get off, one needs to pull on a string that circles the ceiling, which in turn rings a bell. There are lots of air fresheners hanging from the string - likely for good reason. I mentioned to Ronnie that it's a wonder the ceiling doesn't leak. I spoke too soon. As soon as the rain came, a drip developed above my head. Of course these buses are not air conditioned. Air comes in through the open windows unless it is raining, in which case the windows are closed, you have no fresh air and the roof is leaking.
The ceremony was held in one of many pavilion-like structures on the island. The meaning of the ava ceremony is basically used to show hospitality and welcome guests. The root of the ava plant is dug up, cleaned and dried, then ground into powder that is then stirred into water. It is said to have a bitter, earthy taste. It may create a feeling of numbness on the tongue. If enough is consumed, it will intoxicate a person. It is not fermented, but I would imagine like most alcoholic beverages it would have to be an acquired taste. After the princess mixes the drink, the warriors exchange some loud words and the liquid is offered to the recipient in a coconut shell. This is followed by dancing with the princess.
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| setting for ava ceremony |
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| princess and warriors make their entrance |
Following the ava ceremony, we loaded back into the buses and were taken to a local market. The road up and back was wind-ey but scenic (when it wasn't raining) with gorgeous views of the bay in places.
From there we were taken back to the ship for a late lunch. While riding along in the bus, our guide shared lots of interesting facts about her country with us.
* American Somoa is approximately the size of Washington, DC.
* American Somoa is the last country to ring in the new year. Their neighbor Western Somoa is the first. They are divided by the International Date Line, so they are a day apart.
* Somoans can and do bury family members in the yard. They are not required to exhume them upon the sale of the property except at new owners request, and then only if it's been 20 years.
* 80% of American Samoa's economy is dependent on 2 US tuna canneries
* American Samoa has 5 volcanic islands and 2 coral atolls.
* American Samoa has been an American territory for 125 years.
* American Samoa is closer to New Zealand than the continental U.S.
* As an unincorporated territory of the United States, American Samoa citizens classify as US Nationals, not US citizens. Nationals have all the same privileges as citizens with one exception - voting for US presidents (they elect their own government and they maintain their chief system).
* The American Samoa airline, Samoa Air, instituted a pay-by-weight system for passengers.
* American Samoa has such a wide diversity of fish, that if you were to dive around the reefs once a week, in theory you could see a new fish species every dive for 18 years.
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| helping mama |
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| leis and head pieces for sale |
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| brooms and bananas |
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| local handmade jewelry |
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| Starkist's Charlie the Tuna |
Barbara: It is Palm Sunday here. The children came in waving Palm branches and singing Hosanna this morning here. There are large Samoan communities in Oahu. Kahuku has the reputation for Samoan football players and Laie is where the Samoan population the Mormon church helped to move have the Polynesian center. We loved our Samoan friends, very friendly and good artists and sportsmen of every kind. Some came because their islands were population stressed. Others, because they are Mormon and want their children to attend Brigham Young for 2 years in Hawaii before transferring to Mainland. Some because Hawaii weather "Mo Bettah". You were blessed to be offered Samoan AVA (Kava). You can only have it in Samoa-and it is difficult for find and make. The Polynesian cultures hold great store in their sacred rituals, so it was a big honor. They believe in sharing their "Ha" or breath with you. That is considered sacred. It is not unusual for a Samoan friend (male or female) to lean over and put their forehead down yours all the way to your nose and just breathe you in. The Samoan men love their children, and take them along everywhere. They truly share in child rearing. I don't know if you saw any heavily tattooed folks, but many start getting tattoos as early as 8 or 9. They basically chronicle the major events of their lives in tattoos. Greg likes to say Samoans have "Clementine" (the song) feet where it says Herring boxes without topses, sandals were for Clementine. The Samoans have very large, very wide feet...and they swim with very strong kicks. Our friends never seemed to throw anything away, but constantly refurbished...so your busses make sense. They missed the ocean of Samoa...they thought the water was too cold in Hawaii. And they said the fishing was so much better there that everyone fished every day. Sorry it was hot for you. I would probably love it. You have to get used to wearing next to nothing, but no one cares in the islands.
ReplyDeleteAll such interesting comments! I would definitely need to change my wardrobe if I spent much time here. I forgot to mention that they call themselves the "happy people". They are probably very creative if they are that good at recyling/refurbishing. This is no doubt from necessity since their average annual income is very low compared to US mainland standards.
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