Friday, March 20, 2026

Land! I see land!

After 11 days straight with only 1 (very stormy) day in port, I was sooo happy to step foot on dry land! We arrived in Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia around 7 a.m. Land! I see land! After 11 days straight with only 1 (very stormy) day in port, I was sooo happy to step foot on dry land! We arrived in Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia around 7 a.m. Being a small island with a shallow bay, a large cruise ship is unable to dock, making it necessary to tender in.  Everyone on the ship was ready to get off, as evidenced by the wait inside hot tenders to carry us back and forth to the island.

 


At only 127 square miles, Nuku Hiva  is the largest of the Marquesas Islands. This island was the inspiration for 2 of Herman Melville’s novels, one in which he summed up Nuku Hiva as a “country that no description could fit the beauty.” I must agree with him – the island is gorgeous! Hot and humid, but gorgeous! 

 

lots of color

lush and tropical vegetation


We did not book an excursion there, but were happy just to walk around and take in its beauty. Upon the arrival of our tender, we were greeted with plumeria blossoms for our hair, local dancers, drummers and ukulele players performing. 

 

friendly native dancers

4, 6 and  8 string ukuleles
 

From there we went through a small market where locals were selling their arts and crafts, along with local produce. Some offered wood carvings while others offered an array of handmade jewelry and souvenir type items.

 


 

Regarding the locals diet, it tends to be breadfruit, taro, manioc, coconut and many kinds of fruit which grow there in abundance. Goats, fish and (more rarely) pigs are the main sources of meat, but there is a growing amount of local beef available. By the way, Ronnie learned in trivia that the most fattening fruit is….guess what? Coconut!


mango tree loaded with fruit
 

acai berries on palm

 

Once on the island, we weren’t sure whether to turn right or left, so we ended up walking both directions. First we turned to the right and climbed Tuhiva Hill, where we saw many large stone carvings. 

 



The largest, which overlooks the bay of Taiohae was the Tiki Tuhiva. It is a 40 foot sculpture of 2 Tiki people, the female and tallest of the two representing the guardian of tradition and knowledge and the male representing a warrior imposing his power. 
 

side view, Ronnie under Tiki warrior


front view, female guardian of wisdom and knowledge

Coming back down and heading back the other direction, we walked at least a mile (felt like more) to see the Notre Dame Cathedral of the Marquesas, an open air church known for its unique Polynesian architecture. It is famous for its massive wood-carved pulpit, local stone statues and wood from all 6 of the Marquesan islands. Of course I took lots of photos.


entrance to Notre Dame Cathedral grounds

large carvings stand on either side of front doors


 

elaborately carved pulpit

Between the heat and perhaps a little dehydration, I had to take several rest stops on my way back. Ronnie, on the other hand, seized the opportunity to run on land back to the tender dock. 

 

Vista from my shady resting spot

Worrying about what was taking me so long, he came to meet me with water. I was so thankful that we took one of the earlier tenders because there were still people arriving as we were leaving. I can’t imagine how they handled the mid-day heat!

I forgot to mention that Survivor Season #4 was filmed on Nuku Hiva.

 

 

4 comments:

  1. Came back to view more of your beautiful photos. Coleen

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    1. Thanks, Coleen. Tonight I hope to post more from where we are today - GORGEOUS!!

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  2. Barbara: Gorgeous photos...hard to take a bad one ? The dark red flower looks like what is called Puakenikeni in Hawaii. They use these in more expensive Lei. The carvings are wonderful aren't they? I am always amazed by the artistry. I see they have Kukui trees there too. One of my friends said he grew up in Hawaii spending time with his grandparents who used Kukui Nuts to light their grass hale. They would take a fallen branch from a palm tree and line up the Kukui nuts and light them. He said one nut lasted about 15 minutes, and his grandma would tell him to come back from play in "2 Kukui". They make pretty lei for men and nice jewelry. Some still press the oil to use on their skin. When I see French Polynesia, I know why Gauguin left France. The beauty is astounding. The Hawaiians think people from the Marquesas are fierce warriors compared to Hawaiians. And I think your statue of the Fertility goddess might have been where the birthing stones were on the island. I read women would travel from different islands to give birth at a place with the goddess because it gave their babies a higher standing, especially for warriors who might become kings.
    Did you see any birds? I think they have endangered pigeons there. Island people used to eat the non-sea birds, and they also used their feathers to make cloaks and head pieces for royalty...and lei. Red and Yellow feathers were a type of currency. It did my heart good to see the mango tree. Those are the type they make chutney from that is very tasty with Kalua Pig and Lau Lau.
    Oh I wish I was with you and Ronnie and Greg could run off and play for 2 Kukui!

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    1. ha! How interesting! I didn't even know what a kukui tree was! I had to google it to see what the nuts looked like. Funny that your friend's grandma told him to come back in "2 Kukui"! When our youngest was small and couldn't yet read a clock, we measured time by "2 Tom & Jerry's". lol I so agree about the BEAUTY! We didn't see any birds, but there were a number of chickens (with babies) clucking around the island. We did see one (chicken?) eating mango right on the tree!

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