A gaucho kind of a day

Before I talk about today, I have to post this picture Ronnie took from the deck last night. The moon was perfectly round and looked like a big golden ball hanging above the ocean. The picture was taken with his cell phone and doesn’t begin to do it justice, but I thought it was especially beautiful.

So this morning we woke in Buenos Aires. I had a 7 hour excursion but Ronnie chose to stay behind and get some things done. He also thought it would be too similar to our visit to a gaucho ranch in 2023, and he was right except it was on a different ranch. We left around mid-morning and drove for about an hour, stopping once for a bathroom/shopping break. 

 

on store door

gaucho knife is called a facon

Our guide was very personable and easy to understand even with a strong accent. As we drove along, he showed us the different pieces of a gaucho’s attire – the pala (poncho), pañuelo (neck scarf), wide belt, leather boots, bombachas (baggy trousers), several different styles of hats and explained the use of bolas (metal or wooden balls covered in leather and connected by a rope). He explained the benefits of each piece.

 

 

He also talked about the national drink – mate (ma-tay). Yerba mate comes from the dried leaves and twigs of a certain tree. Basically, it’s a bitter, caffeine-rich infused herbal drink. It’s traditionally prepared in a hollowed-out gourd (also called a mate) and sipped through a metal straw called a bombil. It seems every Argentian carries their mate cup wherever they go in order to drink it throughout the day. 

He also demonstrated how it is brewed – first putting the dry mate in the cup, and turning it upside down to remove the powder (do this twice). And you might also turn it on its side (I didn’t catch the purpose in that). Then pour very hot water on it and keep adding water as you consume it. This time I worked up the courage to taste it. I’ll just say that it’s definitely an acquired taste! Argentinians began introducing it to children as early as 4 or 5 years old, often adding sugar to get children to drink it. 

 

a peek inside a mate

Another interesting tidbit – everyone drinks out of everyone else’s mate. Google helped me here. Argentinians offer mate to others “primarily as a deeply ingrained cultural ritual that signifies hospitality, friendship and community. Passing the same gourd and straw between people, known as a mateada, is a way to create bonds, foster equality and share moments of connection.” Also the temperature that you offer to someone has certain meanings (sugar means love). I can’t remember what different temperatures mean but the people know. If someone offers you a sip of their mate, you should accept it. And do not say “thank you” after someone shares with you because that implies you are finished for the day. 

Upon our arrival at the ranch, we were met at the gate by women serving empanadas and offering us something to drink. A few couples dressed in traditional Argentinian attire performed some dances for us, then invited guests to step in and dance with them.

 

welcome to the ranch

proudly flies the flag

 

 

Before being served lunch, we were allowed to wander around on the grounds. The ranch is home to goats, peacocks, guineas and a few other farm animals. I wandered over to where the meat was being cooked and also picked up some beautiful peacock feathers, as did several others. A few horses were saddled in traditional gear and anyone who wanted could take a short, guided ride. Several people could fit in a horse drawn wagon for a few quick spins around the coral.

 

traditional fire roasting

our cooks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lunch was served family style with baskets of bread, bowls of fresh tomato and onion and bowls of green salad. Then the gauchos started showing up at our table with 4 different kinds of meats – first with sausage, a bit later with steaks, then pork ribs and finally chicken. Argentina is known for it’s beef, and everyone (except me) seemed to be loving it. Call me weird, but I don’t like meat that’s not cooked all the way through. I know, I know… 

 

For dessert, we were served chocolate coated ice cream with strawberry sauce. I forgot to mention that there was some kind of sauce or salsa (?) on the tables. It looked somewhat like Mexican salsa but tasted nothing like it and was made with what seemed like some fibrous something that took a while to chew. I assumed it was to be used on the meat. I don't think the others at my table liked it either but certainly no one left hungry!

After the meal, we were entertained by dancers performing traditional drum dances, handkerchief dances (called Samba) and dancing with bolas (Boleadoras). 

 

tricky foot work!

future gaucho

 

 

Samba dancing

After the dancers finished, many of us got up and did some kind of  "dance" (which really wasn't a dance at all) while joining hands and going in different circles, then making a "bridge" for everyone to pass under and then going under it with your partner. I'm not explaining it very well, but I'll just say that everyone was having a good time. Then we all headed back to the buses for the ride back to the ship. It was a fun day.