Another hot one - Salvador de Bahia, Brazil!

Wow, I can see why people wear as little clothes as possible in this climate. It’s the combination of temperature AND humidity! Thankfully we got off the ship fairly early this morning but my clothes were totally soaked with sweat by the time we returned to the ship around 11:30. It was also just starting to rain so we didn’t get back a minute too soon. Still, we accomplished what we set out to do and as always, I took lots of photos.

As soon as I woke this morning and pulled back the curtain, we were already docked in Salvador and I instantly recognized this fort -  Forte de São Marcelo. We actually made these same stops along the southeast coast of Brazil on our previous world cruise; however, that was the week we both got covid and were quarantined in our room. Thankfully we had a balcony, so this was exactly what we saw before; however, this was all we saw then. Now a historic landmark, Sao Marcelo Fort once served as a prison. 

 

São Marcelo Fort, Chapada Diamantina Mountains in background

view from elevator

This is the first time since leaving home 13 days ago we’ve stopped to get fuel. Have you ever wondered how a cruise ship fills up its tank? Me neither, but here’s how it works. You’ll see in the photo below that the tug boat keeps the fuel or “bunker” barge docked closely against the ship so that fuel can be transferred through the large black hoses. This process takes hours.

 

fill'er up!

We didn’t have an excursion planned but we had attended a shipboard talk so we knew what we wanted to do when we ventured out. We were advised to walk about ½ mile to a certain building, then catch an elevator that would take us up from the dock level to a more appealing part of the city. Ours was the first ship in port today but by the time we returned to the ship there was another one docked near us – the MSC Seaview which typically carries 4,100+ passengers. In other words, in addition to the heat, Salvador was overrun with cruise passengers! 

From the moment you walk out of the terminal, person after person starts to bombard you with offers of a cab ride. For at least a couple of blocks, cabs are lined up and drivers are in your face. As before, we were advised not to wear jewelry and of course to be mindful of our surroundings. After all, it’s impossible not to look like a tourist when you just got off a cruise ship and are walking around taking pictures! 

 

good police presence

 

We had been walking no time before the skinniest lady I’ve ever seen approached Ronnie and actually bowed down to the ground, begging for money. It was a pitiful sight. But we had no Brazilian Real (their currency) on us and we never give when approached on the street. Unfortunately, the only way to get them to stop following you is to keep walking, ignore them and depending on their level of persistence, sometimes give a forceful “no.” 

Anyway, a little later Ronnie saw this same lady reach inside the cab while the driver was sleeping and steal his bag. Someone else saw what she did, woke him and told him what happened but the thief started running. He got out and took off after her but was no match and shortly turned back. We saw her a bit later and she had ditched the bag and was sitting on the curb eating. The police are there for good reason but cannot possibly see everything that goes on.

 

pick a hat!

 

fresh coconut water

 

colorful architecture

3 wish bracelets

colorful bracelets outline windows

Black Market 

graffiti street art

 

Salvador is such a colorful city and hot or not, I was going to snap some photos. Many of its buildings are considered a living museum of 17^th and 18^th century Portuguese architecture. Up and down the streets there are merchants selling crafts such as homemade musical instruments, paintings, warm weather clothing (read “barely nothing”), leather goods and all kinds of souvenirs. There are some nicer stores along with the sidewalk merchants. There is much art in the city – not only on the walls of the buildings but for purchase as well.

art for sale

refrigerator magnets

street portrait

street vendor, Ronnie, man with very long dreads

let me paint on you? take my photo!

traditional fighting to drumbeat

You will also see young men doing traditional African dancing or "fighting" to drum beats called Capoeira. According to our Currents publication “There’s no other place in the world where descendants of African slaves have preserved their heritage as well as in Salvador – from music and religion to food, dance and martial arts traditions.”

Buy me!

friendly policia

art for sale

traditional Baiana woman

making change beneath her skirt

 

Some women, called Baianas, wear large, layered and colorful traditional attire as a way to make money. They are easily seen by the huge skirts, headwear, lace blouses and beads. I learned that Baianas are descended from African slaves who sold bean fritters to earn money, and their attire is a symbol of African heritage, strength and resilience. It also represents the African-Brazilian religions like Candomble (worship of African deities) blended with Catholicism. These women approach you and want you to take their photo, but only if you give them money. Again, we had no local money but I was able to sneak a few photos from a distance.

 

front left - cocoa beans (from cacau tree) 

choose your hair, choose your style

 

There were quite a few restaurants with chairs set along the sidewalk but it was too early for lunch. By the time we headed back to the ship for lunch, the streets had become so crowded that it would have been impossible to take the photos I did.

Ronnie said he walked 6,000 steps and I walked the same if not more (he’s taller and has a longer stride). Ha! I was glad we were able to venture around the city a bit but just as glad to return to the air-conditioned ship and enjoy lunch and another shower. 

In addition to fueling up, supplies were being replenished and painting and other maintenance was taking place. It seems that painting is a constant chore.