Tuesday, May 15, 2012

A view from the top...


Here we are in Lombok, Indonesia - only days from our own home and our own bed! After completing his assignment at ITB, Ronnie and I flew to Lombok for the Fulbright Pre-Departure Conference. We arrived a few days early in order for Ronnie to be able to hike Mt. Rinjani. I asked him to write about his experience.



view from the top of Mt Rinjani



En (porter) prepares for 2-day hike



Ronnie with Arial (guide)



on the "up and up" climb



Rinjani is the second tallest peak in Indonesia, rising above the ocean over 12,000 on the small island of Lombok in the Bali Sea.  Since we were coming for our departure conference, climbing Rinjani was on my list of things to do.

The trail up Rinjani is only 4.7 miles, but the vertical ascent is 6600 feet (1.25 miles). By comparison, Mt. Red Cloud in CO has a 4 mile trail but only 2000 foot ascent from the trail head.

After a 3-hour drive from the hotel, I (along with a guide and porter) started up the hill at 8am. The trail was okay for the first mile, but I was going on fresh legs. The trail changed at that point and became steep. Each step was an exercise in lifting my whole body, made heavier by the pack I was carrying.

At the half-way point, a European man resting on the trail told me that he was turning back. I asked my guide if I should turn back but he said I could do it, and I continued on. The trail became devilish about 3/4th the way up. It was not only steep, but rocky, or covered with tree roots that looked like snakes. The trail became muddy when it started to rain. It was just awful. We passed 4 young hikers from Singapore and they commented about how strong I was. That encouraged me to keep moving. We passed 2 persons from the UK and they only nodded, too tired to say anything. Every ounce of energy went into taking the next step.



setting up camp for the night



When we finally reached the top, the view was spectacular! I took a few photos and the porter fixed a meal of fried chicken, fried rice and a fried egg. I ate most of it, and crawled into the tent at 6pm, sleeping off and on most of the night. It was raining and very chilly at the top.

Early the next morning, I could barely eat my breakfast. I just wasn’t hungry. The mountain was covered in fog (a cloud). We began our descent at 7am. The trek down was more difficult than hiking up. My legs were sore and tired, yet each step had to be planned and controlled to avoid a fall and ruining my knees.

We stopped for lunch 3/4th the way down and even “my tired” was tired at that point! I already didn’t know how I could keep going, but then it started to rain - as hard as any rain I’ve ever seen! The water rushed down the steep trail and covered my boots on most steps. I was water logged and even more tired from carrying the extra weight of soaked clothing, boots and backpack.



awesome view from top of the crater



Yay Ronnie! Yay Texas! Yay A&M!!



guide Arial
starting decline



Almost down, my legs began to cramp and I thought I was done for, but I stretched for a few minutes and was able to keep going. When we finished, I was so glad!! I tipped the guide and the porter and headed back to the hotel, sore but happy.

Note: Ronnie told me that the porter was carrying an uncooked chicken when they left. Four hours later it was cooked (boiled). The same chicken was used for meals that day and the next (no refrigeration of course). They boiled spring water for tea and coffee and carried bottled water to drink. Amazingly his stomach survived!

Winding it up!


Our last day in Bandung couldn't have possibly gone better. It started out hectic, as we did last minute packing and waited on our landlady to count knives, forks, spoons and everything else in the apartment before we could “settle up.” The day before I had packed pretty much everything (bedding, kitchen stuff, etc) for Aisah (she cried of course) and we said our last goodbyes. After leaving our apartment for the last time, Ferry dropped us off at ITB where Ronnie had planned a special ceremony for his students.



almost 100 year old ITB - "MIT of Indonesia"



notice Dutch colonial style architecture



students make presentations



presenting booklets to Tom Healy and Mike McCoy


 
Tom Healy, head of the Fulbright Program (DC) who happened to be in Indonesia, AMINEF personnel (who administer Fulbright in Jakarta) and the other 3 Fulbright recipients stationed in Bandung, along with students from both semesters attended. Ronnie was excited that “those in charge” took the opportunity to meet with and hear from the students first hand so that they could understand the work they had been doing.

After a short welcome from Dr. Dwi Widyantoro (Dean of Informatics at ITB) and Ronnie, several students explained how they had teamed with students at Texas A&M University to develop software programs and how they have benefitted from the partnership. Ronnie also put together a booklet with the students photos along with excerpts from the course questionnaires. Some of the most exciting responses had to do with the relationships the students developed as they teamed with partners halfway around the globe as they learned about each others work habits, interests, cultures, etc.

 


 

One student voiced that he had a certain idea of Americans (cocky, arrogant, etc) but that his stereotype had dissolved as he realized that Americans were “people, just like us.” It’s interesting that Westerners on the whole know little-to-nothing about Indonesians (why would we?) while Indonesians have definite perceptions of Americans, solely based on all the TV they watch. One student even commented “I think I have been tricked by Hollywood.”



Semester 1 Class



Semester 2 Class



Each student received a Certificate of Professional Development and had their photograph taken with Mr. Healy (FULBRIGHT) and Mike McCoy (AMINEF). Afterwards ITB hosted a lunch that allowed for more one-on-one visiting between guests and students. It was a very informative time for Fulbright and AMINEF officials and a great close to Ronnie's Fulbright experience.



Mike McCoy (AMINEF) and Tom Healy (DC) with 4 Fulbright Recipients



Based on discussions that have already taken place, it seems probable that Fulbright will want to consider this teaming/collaborative model for the future.  It certainly gives the American taxpayers "more bang for their buck" as it involves so many more people in the process and results. No doubt Ronnie could have shared much better on this subject but he’s in conference today and I’m trying to hurry and close out the blog before we leave for the airport in a few hours!





Ronnie with 3 excellent ITB Informatics students



Tom Healy chats with students over lunch



Ronnie returns his office key to Dwi as we are driving away


I think one of us was heard to say "happiness is Bandung in the rear view mirror" as we drove away (ok, I confess it was me) but all in all I must say that serving as a Fulbright scholar in Indonesia has been a rewarding experience for Ronnie. Rarely has he felt that his teaching has had as much impact on the lives of young men and women as it has here.













Saturday, May 12, 2012

Adu Domba (Ram Fighting)





loaded and ready


Adu Domba (literally “pitting sheep”) is hugely popular here in West Java. I learned this shortly after coming here and have been mildly interested in going to one, not because I care about seeing rams butt horns but just because ram fighting is a “very Indonesian” thing to do.





I had mentioned to Ferry about going to a ram fight awhile back. Neither of us realized that ram fighting is a weekly occurrence on land owned by ITB every Sunday. So after taking Ibu Aisah and her cucus (grandchildren) to the zoo Sunday afternoon, Ferry and I decided to go back so I could see this "once-in-a-lifetime event" (his words). And of course he was right, as I will never again attend another ram fighting event in Indonesia.



prizes - trophy and cow



mushy muddy
Fortunately (or not, depending on how you look at it), it was just winding down as we arrived. Tall gold colored trophies and other prizes were already being awarded and rams were being loaded onto trucks as we slipped and slid our way down the hill toward the arena (it had rained earlier and everything was extremely muddy). Btw, the show does not stop for a little rain, or even a lot.




male bonding during Abu Domba



rams come in all colors
Thankfully, ram fighting is not like cock fighting where one animal ends up killing another. It is my understanding that butting their horns is what a ram intuitively does – whether it's against a tree, a building or another ram. Also, these rams are prized (and hopefully money making) possessions so their owners are not interested in allowing them to get seriously injured. Owning and fighting rams is all about creating a champion specimen that can win its owner big prizes.


  
look! a bule!



attempting to cross a busy street with a ram



are you checkin' out these horns?



young boy loading truck after a long day



musicians load gamelan



During the contest, traditional Sundanese gamelan music is played and helps work the rams and spectators into a state of excitement. Gamelan includes bronze or iron instruments supported by carved wooden racks and other instruments (also used in traditional puppet shows). You'll get the idea with the short youtube clip above which was actually made at the same place the rest of these photos were taken.





Supposedly, each ram is allowed a maximum of 20 “head butts” (my term). Each opponent scores points on such things as color, horns, wool type, ability to attack or dodge, etc.  If one of the rams runs from its opponent or falls down he instantly loses. After scores are tallied, a winner is named.



headed home after a hard day's work



The big pay off? The owner of the winning ram goes home with all kinds of prizes – including a huge trophy, a large monetary sum and other large items like a cow, big screen TV, refrigerator and motorcycle. It's safe to say that ram fighting is big sport, big money and big entertainment here in Indonesia.



ready to roll


Friday, May 11, 2012

Sidewalks of Bandung

With all the preparations for leaving and a flurry of "lasts" in Bandung, I've gotten somewhat behind with the blog. But I still have a few photos to share, along with a final update on Ronnie's work here and our last few days in Indonesia before I close it out.

The sidewalk shots below are not very representative because Bandung sidewalks are typically  crowded with lots of people and merchandise. I liked these because I was able to isolate individuals in their large and busy surroundings. While none makes a particular statement, collectively they add another glimpse into life in a large Indonesian city. These were taken at various places around the city from the back seat of our rented car with the exception of the first one which I snapped in the zoo parking lot.



seen in zoo parking lot  




I have no idea who the portrait is but the word "pupuk" means dung or fertilizer, "kandang" means cage. Perhaps he is selling animal dung from the zoo? It wouldn't surprise me, as Indonesians are ingenious at coming up with ways to make money.



faded lettering says "Two Brothers Store"



I always wonder "where is everyone is going?"



wooden bowls are used to grind rice (?)



sadly, an all too common scene



sidewalk sales



colorful graffiti



food vendor, tailor has stepped away



blank walls = graffiti artist's canvas



SOLD?



Saturday, May 5, 2012

A Lesson in Batik

Hasan Batik - est. 1980

So today we got to do something that we've talked about for months. Ronnie and I, along with our friends Helen and Mindy (Fulbright scholar in Journalism) took a 3 hour batik class. I won't say that any of us will be getting them framed soon, but it was a fun morning and we learned the basic steps in producing batik.





tools of the trade
First of all, you must know that batik is HUGE in Indonesia. Almost everyone wears it. Truthfully, I've never been a big fan of batik, but I can certainly appreciate the art much more, especially after seeing what is involved. What exactly is batik? It is the art of decorating cloth using both wax and dye. Some of the most beautiful batik cloth in the world is made here in Indonesia. The word batik originates from the Javanese tik which means "to dot."

There are different  methods, one done completely by hand (canting) using a tool made of bamboo with a small bit of copper formed to hold the hot wax. This free hand drawing is tedious and time consuming. The other method uses molds which of course goes much faster. But even with molds, there is a definite art to be learned.




Note: Mindy put together a short video of our lesson and gave me permission to use it. The music she used is the angklung, a traditional Javanese instrument made from bamboo.



beautiful pieces hanging to dry

We were each given a piece of white cloth and allowed to choose whatever molds we wanted to use. After we figured out what we wanted to do (pattern wise), one of the workers placed our molds in hot wax and helped us with placement. The wax acts as a relief and prevents the dye from absorbing into the cloth.





Ronnie touching up after first stamping



exact placement is critical!



The next step involves painting the areas that are not waxed. This can be extremely time consuming, depending on the pattern chosen. We were given a limited range of colors to work with. Once painted, the cloth is allowed to dry. When dry, it is dipped into an acid bath where the colors are set. From there it goes into a wash, followed by boiling water where the wax is removed. This is followed by a final rinse. We were all surprised at our results! It looked completely different going in than it did coming out. It was fun to see the process and seeing what is involved certainly increases appreciation for the art of batik.



once waxing is complete, hand painting begins



sun drying the waxed and painted design



acid bath - colors intensify!



worker quickly removes acid bath from cloth



boiling water removes wax



wow! I had no idea it was going to look like that!



Jan, Helen & Mindy with masterpieces (?)



Ronnie and his bird project - awesome!